October 17, 2022
Best of British: the effervescent rise of English wine
Once upon a time, the phrase ‘British wine’ might have been considered something of an amusing oxymoron. How things change. The last few decades have seen a boom in the British wine industry, thanks to ambitious new winemakers combining their creativity and skill with ideal geography. Climate change plays a part, too. Summers are becoming longer and dryer, and rising temperatures suggest that the grape-ripening issues that have haunted England’s winemakers may become a thing of the past.
In 2020, English sparkling wine triumphed over top Champagne brands in the international wine competition. Dorset winemaker Langham Wine Estate garnered one of the most prestigious awards a winemaker can win: the International Wine & Spirit Competition Sparkling Wine Producer of the Year 2020.
So what can we expect from British wines? Award-winning fizz, for sure. The main plantings are the three classic Champagne grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier. Thanks to Britain’s chalky hills, undulating landscapes and cool climate, sparkling wine accounts for 64% of British wine production, drawing well-deserved comparisons with Champagne. Many areas of Great Britain share the same climate and geography as the Champagne region in France; in fact, several French champagne houses, including Taittinger, are currently investing in vineyards across England.
British Airways has always been a big supporter of English bubbles. In 2009, the airline’s former Global Wine and Beverage Manager, Peter Nixson, introduced the first English sparkling wine on board British Airways (an airline debut for the category). Since then BA has consistently included an English sparkling wine as part of the in-flight cellar offering. Each year, more than 100,000 bottles of premium English sparkling are poured on board and in the lounges. A leading panel supports British Airways' wine programme, including Jancis Robinson MW and Hugh Johnson MW.
Here are five of our favourite British producers, whose award-winning bottles grace British Airways’ in-flight wine menus and The Wine Flyer’s hand-picked retail selection.
ONES TO WATCH
HATTINGLEY VALLEY, HAMPSHIRE
Over in Hampshire, Hattingley Valley also has a well-stocked awards cabinet, winning more than 100 medals, 13 trophies, and 3 ‘Best in Class’ accolades for its English Sparkling Wines. Producing both still and sparkling elixirs, the estate is beloved for its innovative, dynamic approach and currently exports internationally to 16 countries.
Hattingley Valley Wines has grown from a family-run farm diversification project back in 2008 to a 600-tonne, eco-friendly winery, purpose-built under the guidance of former Head Winemaker and Director Emma Rice. Today the team is expertly led by acclaimed Master of Wine Robert MacCulloch MW; don’t miss their excellent wine tour.
The Wine Flyer suggests: Hattingley Valley Blanc de Blancs 2014; Hattingley Valley Brut Rosé 2018; Hattingley Valley Classic Reserve NV
CHAPEL DOWN, KENT
Chapel Down produced the first English sparkling wine to fly with BA. The estate’s award-winning still and sparkling wines feature grapes grown in the chalky terroir of the North Downs of Kent.
Chapel Down’s Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Meunier and Bacchus vines are grown on south-facing chalk soils, benefiting from a warm, maritime climate. The estate also sources high-quality fruit from trusted partner vineyards across Kent, Sussex and Essex, resulting in balanced wines with unique flavour profiles.
The Wine Flyer suggests: Chapel Down Kit’s Coty Chardonnay 2019; Chapel Down English Sparkling Rosé NV; Chapel Down Brut NV; Chapel Down Kit’s Coty Blanc de Blancs 2017
GUSBOURNE ESTATE, KENT
An hour from London, in the bucolic Garden of England, Gusbourne Estate is on a mission to create the finest wines in the world, using grapes exclusively from its own vineyards.
Crafted using the traditional method, the estate’s award-winning sparkling wines showcase grapes grown across 60 hectares in Appledore, Kent, and 30 hectares next to the Goodwood Estate in West Sussex. Head Winemaker Charlie Holland is the only three-time winner of the IWSC English Wine Producer of the Year.
The Wine Flyer suggests: Gusbourne Estate Brut Reserve 2018; Gusbourne Estate Rosé Brut 2018; Gusbourne Estate Blanc de Blancs 2018; Gusbourne Estate Blanc de Noirs 2018
CAMEL VALLEY, CORNWALL
When ex-RAF pilot Bob Lindo and his wife Annie planted their first 8,000 vines in 1989, they never imagined the success to come. In 2002, Camel Valley won the Waitrose Drinks Producer of the Year Award; in 2005, Camel Valley 'Cornwall' sparkling wine garnered an International Wine Challenge Gold Medal. British Airways still holds some treasured 2013 sparklings in the cellar; this flew widely across the network from 2016.
Winning attributes include an idyllic setting on sun-drenched slopes by the Camel River; grapes that perfectly suit the soil and climate; a respect for traditional vineyard practices combined with a modern approach to winemaking and, above all, a philosophy that puts drinking pleasure first.
The Wine Flyer suggests: Camel Valley Brut 2013; Camel Valley Brut 2019; Camel Valley Bacchus 2021
BOLNEY WINE ESTATE, SUSSEX
Family-run Bolney Wine Estate in scenic Sussex has been perfecting its craft for the past five decades, producing an array of award-winning still and sparkling wines, from Pinot Noir and Lychgate Bacchus to its classic English Sparkling Wine, Bolney Bubbly and Blanc de Blancs. In 2017, BA took the entire production of Bolney Blanc de Blancs, serving it on board flights for seven months of the year.
The estate’s debut wine was a classic English table wine, made from Muller Thurgau Grapes; its 1983 vintage won a silver medal in the 16th International Wine Spirits Competition. A pioneering red wine followed in 1998 and the estate’s first English Sparkling Wine, made from Seyval Blanc, debuted just in time for the Millennium.
The Wine Flyer suggests: Bolney Estate Blanc de Blancs 2018